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Interior Opening
The process of installing a roof window is much like installing
a wall window, with a few added steps and obvious precautions from
falling. And like most windows, the majority of the work involves
framing the opening -- two openings when framing a shaft.
It's usually less hassle to start installation by creating the interior
opening first. This is done by marking the roof window opening on
the ceiling or unfinished framing.
If you have to cut through into the attic, check for wiring that
might be in the way and remove any insulation in that area. Cut
the opening and remove the drywall or ceiling material.
Reinforce the outer ceiling joists with same-sized lumber pieces
screwed on each side extending to the next header. In some cases
this may be the entire ceiling length.
NOTE: Screws are suggested here because hammering may crack existing
drywall seams.
Remove the ceiling joists that occupy the interior opening, cutting
back to accommodate the headers ( minimum double-headers = at least
3") on each side. Install the appropriate-sized headers. If you're
not sure, contact a building inspector. But there should be at least
two pieces of lumber on each side.
Recess header the thickness of the ceiling drywall. Install trimmer
studs between the headers on each side of the opening at the proper
width.
Later, you'll need to frame between the ceiling opening and the
roof window frame in order to support the window and hang the drywall.
For that reason, we'll frame the window on the roof next instead
of finishing out the shaft.
Exterior Opening
To transpose the center of the ceiling opening to the roof,
locate the center of each ceiling frame header, mark them and align
a plumb bob from the underside of the roof sheathing down to each
mark. Mark the opposing points on the sheathing and draw a line
connecting them.
Use this center line as reference to transpose the recommended roof
window opening dimensions.
NOTE: Some roof windows set in the frame and attach with
brackets, while better designed windows have a flange that allows
them to set on the roof over the frame.
With the opening marked, reinforce the rafters like the ceiling
joist, nailing same-sized lumber to the peak. Poke nails through
the roof at the corners of the drawing. Up on the roof, snap a chalkline
using the nails as guides.
Using a carbide-tip blade in a circular saw, carefully cut the opening
and finish the corner cuts with a hand or reciprocating saw.
WARNING: Because the blade will gum up with tar and may kick
back, some people prefer to cut through the shingles and roofing
with reciprocating saw. However, with this method it's more difficult
to cut a straight line. You may opt to do waterproofing before leaving
the roof (mention later).
Pry off the cut piece and returning to the attic, cut the exposed
rafters in the opening, again, allowing for the headers on each
side (usually 3"). Now, install the headers and trimmer studs for
the correct height and width of the roof opening.
Waterproofing
Back on the roof, remove the shingles surrounding the opening
to allow for waterproofing measures (i.e. flashing, tar paper).
Don't skimp here, roof windows are vulnerable to leaking if not
installed properly.
Before fastening the window to the roof framing, consider putting
down ice and water protection, in the roll form, or more messy but
less expensive, roofing tar. Anchor the window according to the
manufacturer's directions.
NOTE: Nailing/screwing the flashing in the incorrect place
may cause water to leak in. As an added measure, put down ice and
water protection again, this time over the window flange. Add roofing
felt over the protection and caulk where it butts up against the
window.
Start at the bottom of the window with the step flashing, install
a shingle, then flashing, etc. Overlap the flashing as you work
toward the top. The manufacturer may include additional waterproofing
channel flashing or framing.
Shaft Framing
With the window installed, the shaft is all that's left to frame.
It helps support the window and provides framing for the drywall.
Reinforce under the four corners and support the side framing every
16" by beveling or notching 2x4s or 2x6s, nailing them to the headers
and studs.
After toenailing the studs in, insulate the cavity and install a
vapor barrier. That completes the roof window installation. Now
the shaft is ready for
drywall.
Miscellaneous Information
Installation should be done by a qualified roofer or contractor.
Complete installation instructions are shipped with each skylight.
Follow these instructions precisely to assure a quality installation.
A certified installer program
is under development. E-mail Skylights Online if you are interested
in becoming a certified installer.
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